You are What You Eat….or is it Wear?

(image via

(image via

A couple of months ago, I walked past 127 Prince Street at the corner of Wooster and was surprised to see that a Lululemon men’s store had opened. Lululemon for men? It had probably been there for months and I had just not noticed. What a leap, I thought, from the old days.

In 1971, that same space was home to a restaurant called Food. Founded by artists Gordon Matta-Clark, Carol Goodden, and Tina Giroux, Food was a social and culinary hub where artists could find employment, nourishment, and camaraderie. It was, for a long time, one of the only places to eat in SoHo, other than Fanelli’s and a few greasy spoons that were only open for lunch to serve the neighborhood factory workers.

foodfacadeAt Food, there was no wall between the kitchen and dining room—food preparation was a performance for all to see, and its consumption was a delight to mind and body. In truth, it was a revolutionary way to eat. SoHo was a community of counter-culture back then that included food and Food. Sometimes scarce, food was an integral part of SoHo life, often celebrated and raised to the level of art at Food. The restaurant’s founding was part of a culinary revolution that centered upon fresh, locally grown and often organic food in an open kitchen, common today but unheard of back then.

FOOD Under Construction (photo courtesy Carol Goodden)

FOOD Under Construction (photo courtesy Carol Goodden)

The original owners of Food moved on in early 1974, and after that the restaurant changed hands several times. It kept its name and general theme, but it was transformed from a cooperative into a profit-making enterprise and by the late-1970’s it had long lost it’s the utopian spirit upon which it was found, although it continued to employ many local artists. It eventually became a trendy tourist restaurant and finally closed its doors in 1988, and since then, the space has been occupied by a series of clothing boutiques, including Lucky Brand, and now Lululemon.

Lululemon, who first became known as a purveyor of yogawear, is now known widely for fashionable (and pricey) athleticwear. The brand is worn today not only in the yoga studio or gym, however. It used to be not too long ago that if you wore yoga pants in public, you were considered a slouch, too lazy to get dressed properly to go outside. Nowadays, in no small part due to superbrand Lululemon, women, and now more and more men, flaunt the Lululemon logo as they walk the streets of SoHo as a status symbol that reflects their dedication to a healthy lifestyle.

The Lululemon Men's store on Prince at Wooster

The Lululemon Men’s store on Prince at Wooster

This is a phenomenon researchers have coined “enclothed cognition,” a term used to describe psychological changes in self perception depending on the clothes we wear. If one wears athletic clothing one feels, or perceives oneself to appear, healthy and fit. So perhaps Lululemon, like Food, is at the forefront of a cultural revolution. At Food, people demonstrated “enourished” cognition, after all. Their “brand” made us all think differently about something essential in our everyday life, nutrition. Is what Lululemon does for clothing what Food did for, well, food?

Yes and no. If one takes a closer look, these are actually examples of opposing phenomena, one affecting the inner self and the other affecting the others’ perception of the self. Herein lies one of the fundamental differences between SoHo of the 60’s and 70’s and the SoHo of the 00’s and 10’s: the gaze. The introspection that begat the artistic expression in the SoHo of old morphed over time into a focus on public perception that begat the fashion trends of today’s SoHo. Food and Lululemon, occupying the same space in the heart of SoHo, though decades apart, were both at the forefront of paradigm shifts in our culture at large, equally powerful and perhaps equally enduring.

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11 Responses to “You are What You Eat….or is it Wear?”

  1. Carol Goodden Says:

    Nice write up!!

  2. William O'Toole Says:

    I was a dishwasher, and Sunday brunch prep cook there in the years 1978-79. It still retained a bohemian atmosphere, but it was a for profit business. Wonderful desserts, and quiches. $4.00/Hr off the books. lol. The tour buses from Long Island would always stop there for a meal. I’m afraid we were a bit snarky sometimes. One of the best periods of my life.

  3. melissa gardner Says:

    Am I right in remembering that the food being served was on cafeteria trays? soooo long ago…

    • William O'Toole Says:

      It was indeed cafeteria style. You picked up a tray, silverware, and white plate, soup bowl/salad bowl, and slid the tray along as you made your way to the cash register. Some foods like desserts were already plated, and you could pick them up and put them on your tray. Drinks were available…iced tea, Snapple, etc.

  4. Craig Says:

    If you watch the 1978 movie, “An Unmarried Woman” I believe the the main character (played by Jill Clayburgh) has lunch there with her husband. After they leave, he informs her he is in love with another woman whereupon she immediately vomits on the corner. It all seemed so sophisticated to this young college guy.

    After I moved to New York in 1980 and was actually eating there myself, each time friends and I left the place inevitably one of us would imitate the scene with mock heaves. Good times, good times…

  5. Ernesto Says:

    Does anyone know something about the previous shop owners that had that sign say “Comidas Criollas”?
    It’s a widely used term in Argentina for traditional food, but I don’t know, it may really be of any spanish speaking origin.

  6. Zoe Barracano Says:

    I wonder if we can find their recipes. Maybe Joan knows them?

  7. Nancy Robbins - I lived on Prince St at the time. Says:

    I am wondering if Zoe Barracano ever found some recipes from FOOD. I so loved the Poppy seed cake w/cream cheese frosting!

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